Some time in December I awoke with a craving for fish chowder. This happens quite a bit since I moved back to St. John’s, partly because I worked in the kitchen at Get Stuffed for about half a year, and I suppose the other part is all about location. When I’m in Montreal, I seek out a poutine, etc.
At Get Stuffed there are no half measures when it comes to flavour, and some days it seemed that the two primary ingredients for most dishes were butter and bacon, and therefore the dishes draw a regular, satisfied crowd. At the time I was not eating pork, which left me quite wistful at key moments when I wanted to try their Tomato Gin soup or the meatloaf BLT sandwiches. This dietary restriction has since changed and is no doubt a result of giving in to regular, wonderful, temptations. No regrets.
I made quite a lot of fish cakes there for the lunch crowd, and missed the start-to-finish process when I left. It is therefore a pleasure to whip up a batch in my own space, and occasionally stray from the traditional recipe by injecting a little personal flavour favourites.
Back to the craving; the smoky flavour base that bacon provides to a creamy white fish-based bowl of chowder, particularly in the winter months, is irreplaceable. I couldn’t be arsed at 9 AM on a Saturday to shop for ingredients and then begin a fish stock for a chowder, however it’s no trouble to make a great fish cake in 60 minutes, either traditional or with a deeper heat .
Why not experiment and put the smoky aspect of the bowl into a fish disk? While I do love a thick fish cake that is crispy on the exterior yet soft and flaky within, I decided to throw in some crunch amongst the mixture of mashed potato and cod. Only one food can facilitate: crispy bacon.
435 g salt fish
900 g boiling potatoes
3 tbsp butter
200 ml whole milk
400 g bacon
3 medium onions
1 tbsp cumin
1 tbsp hot chilli powder (I got mine in Little India on Gerrard Street, Toronto)
1 tbsp turmeric
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp za’atar
1 tsp smoked salt
1 tsp pepper
Salt cod is a better idea for fish cakes as opposed to regular fillets as it adds both more flavour and chewiness to the final result (thanks, Karla). You can procure this at any market in my city, but you’ll have to look around in cities such as Toronto or Montreal. Locate a Portuguese or Italian neighbourhood, or just find a Newfoundland shop. You’ll need to soak the fish in cold water for 24 hours, changing the water at least four times. This extracts the majority of the salt yet retains the sailor-flavour. Put it in a colander and drain it for about 5 minutes before you place it in the oven.
While your water is boiling, drain your fish for 5 minutes and then place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Sprinkle with pepper and bake them for 10 to 12 minutes. When they are ready, pour off the water into a large stainless steel bowl.
Heat up a cast iron pan to about medium, and begin frying up the bacon. As it gets crispy, slide them over to one side of the pan and add the onions; this way they benefit from the bacon fat. Remove the bacon as it gets cripsy, and don’t leave the onions for more than 10 minutes. Place the onions in the same bowl containing the cooked-fish broth.
While you are waiting, peel your garlic and proceed to either dice or run through the food processor. If you are making a few recipes throughout the day, grab two cloves of garlic and process them at the same time; place them into a small container and drizzle with vegetable oil to keep them moist. This garlic is semi-cured and is brought to you by Mount Scio Farms‘ Jeremy Carter, available during the summer and fall in St. John’s:
Drain the spuds and put back into the dutch oven and throw in the butter, cut into cubes. Add your spices and cover the pot and wait about 3 minutes. Open it up and begin gently mashing for about 20 seconds.
Put that aside and cut up the fish into tiny pieces. Here’s a lovely shot of my two favourite weekend ingredients:
Combine all ingredients into the bowl, and either lightly mash or mix it with your hands. It’s more of a challenge to form the cakes when warm, so I generally place the bowl into the freezer for about ten minutes. On Sunday, once refrigerated for a day, the cakes will form much easier. Ideal size for the cakes are 8cm diameter and 3 cm thick.
Get your cast iron pan on medium-high; throw some flour on a cutting board and lightly cover the cakes. If you have any bacon fat remaining, use that to cook the cakes. Otherwise grab some vegetable oil or pork scrunchions and use that.
Cook 3 minutes on one side, then flip the discs and let ’em sizzle for 5. Finish them off in the oven on broil for another 3.
Plate those babies on a big plate next to the…
I like the contrast of a rich, pulpy Turkish olive as well as the traditional mustard pickles. If you want to enhance the heat of the cooked-in chilli powder, try a garlic – Siracha mayonnaise instead. If you were me, you’d enjoy this with a cold beer…as long as it’s after 11 AM.